First Impressions of Ulaanbaatar

First Impressions of Ulaanbaatar

When I first arrived in Ulaanbaatar, I must admit I didn't have high expectations. I had heard that this city was heavily polluted and mostly served as a stopover for travelers heading out to the vast steppes. The statistics were daunting too, with temperatures plummeting to a bone-chilling -40°C, and residents relying on coal for heating, which contributes to severe air pollution.

At first glance, everything felt unfriendly. The traffic was congested, the sidewalks were in disrepair, and the atmosphere was rather gloomy. Having read about pickpocketing issues before my trip, I clutched my bag tightly while awkwardly navigating through the rocky streets. The initial days were not exactly enjoyable.

A Change of Heart

However, to my surprise, after just a few days, I began to develop a fondness for this city. Ulaanbaatar boasts some of the most incredible museums I have ever visited. From here, I learned so much about Mongolian culture and history without needing to leave the city.

Shopping was also an adventure. The chaotic Narantuul black market was a must-visit, and purchasing high-quality cashmere directly from the source was a unique experience. I even joined a cultural tour and was instantly captivated by the Mongolian metal band The Hu. Gradually, I realized that the gloom I initially perceived was actually a reflection of the city’s resilience.

Discovering Mongolian History

When in Ulaanbaatar, it’s essential to grasp a bit of the local history. The city is a tapestry woven from old and new. Here, you can find Buddhist temples nestled beside Soviet-era buildings. This blend is a testament to four significant phases in Mongolian history: the Mongol Empire, Buddhism, Communism, and the transition to democracy.

Genghis Khan unified the Mongolian tribes and established the largest contiguous empire in history. Subsequently, Tibetan Buddhism became an integral part of Mongolian identity. However, the country also endured a heavy Soviet influence, during which religion was suppressed, many monks were executed, and temples were destroyed.

Day One: Visiting Temples and Museums

Kicking off my journey at Gandan Monastery, I had a remarkable experience attending the morning prayers. This is the most famous Buddhist temple in Mongolia, and if you only visit one temple, make it Gandan. Here, you can find a stunning 26-meter golden statue of Migjid Janraisig, symbolizing compassion in Buddhism.

It’s definitely worth a visit, but be aware that there’s an additional fee if you want to take photos inside.

A Note on Photography Rules

One of the most frustrating aspects of traveling in Ulaanbaatar was the photography regulations. At many locations, you have to pay extra to be allowed to take photos, which can be quite a hassle during your exploration.