Rediscovering Childhood Memories on the Island of Cyprus

Rediscovering Childhood Memories on the Island of Cyprus

On this beach, there’s a granite stone that marks the spot where the love goddess Aphrodite is said to have emerged on the shores of Pafos. According to a note from 2013, it was on January 9, a thousand years ago. A massive rock signifies the place where the Greek goddess of love appeared from the waves, nude and in the style of Botticelli, on a giant shell. This sun-drenched location has long been a place of admiration for Aphrodite, where ancient temples like Palaipafos and Amathous were once worshipped.

This place is truly revered, but as the dawn's light spills over the distant hills, I find myself wondering: “Will she help me rekindle my love for the place I once called home?”

Childhood Among the Vineyards

I grew up not far from here, in Cyprus's second-largest city, Limassol. My father is British, and my mother has Indian roots from Kenya; they arrived here in the late 1970s and have never left. Cyprus resembles a massive aluminum pan, stretching 140 miles long and 62 miles wide, making it the third-largest island in the Mediterranean, after Sicily and Sardinia. However, by the time I turned 25, I started to feel that this place was too small. I never truly felt like I belonged here.

The surrounding sea often left me feeling anxious and, at times, even disheartened. So, I made the decision to leave for Dubai, a place I had never imagined I would visit. Cyprus's strategic location has attracted many invaders throughout history, from the Assyrians to the Egyptians, and most recently Turkey in 1974, which has altered the mindset of the locals.

Exploring Lemesos

Back in Cyprus, I decided to explore and reconnect with the place I had been away from for 17 years. Starting from the historic center of Lemesos, I enjoyed breakfast at the area in front of the Old Port hotel, soaking in the quintessential Cypriot scenery. Under the shadow of the 16th-century Kebir church, elderly gentlemen gathered at a traditional café, sipping thick coffee, while the sound of rolling dice mingled with the clinking of prayer beads.

Once considered too dilapidated to visit, this area has transformed thanks to EU restoration efforts, turning the gloomy atmosphere into beautifully renovated classical buildings, enhanced by pedestrian spaces that breathe life into the restaurants and cafés.

Delicious Cuisine

From a narrow alleyway on Agiou Andreou Street, where locals have shopped since the early 20th century, I found myself at Alley, where chef Christoforos Tofaridis and his friend Christos Yiallouros were preparing for my first meal. Tofaridis, who had worked in London’s renowned restaurants like Sketch and Nopi, decided to return to Cyprus after Brexit. Yiallouros convinced him to open a restaurant in what was once a derelict café, now transformed into a cozy and inviting space.

We savored simple yet exquisite dishes, from roasted cauliflower with almond sauce to grilled sea bass with local caper salsa verde. Alley’s menu brings a refreshing vibe while still embracing classic flavors.

The Sea and Pristine Beaches

Tourists often flock to Cyprus for beautiful beaches like Ayia Napa and Protaras in the east or the untouched bays in Pafos. I typically prefer the pebble beaches at Pissouri Bay and Cape Aspro, where every New Year’s Day, my dad and I would swim a lap together to welcome the new year. The locals here not only connect with the sea but also with the majestic mountains towering above.

Picturesque Scenery in Pano Lefkara

Pano Lefkara is nestled in a valley 2,100 feet above sea level. Narrow, matchstick-like streets are lined with tiled-roof houses, their doors and shutters painted in striking cobalt blue. In the 15th century, the wives of Venetian nobles came here to escape the heat, and their influence remains in the famous Lefkaritika embroidery, known for its geometric patterns.

I ventured out with a craftsperson named Christina Socratous, who is passionate about preserving Cyprus's traditional crafts. Dressed in pristine white attire, she sat under a mandarin tree at her grandparents’ house, sharing insights about the artisans she collaborates with. Having lived in England and studied at the London College of Fashion, she returned to Cyprus to revive traditional craftsmanship.

A Journey Back

Aphrodite may still be playing her tricks, but the memories and experiences from my childhood live on within me. Returning to Cyprus, I felt a profound connection to this land, rich with beauty and meaningful stories. While it may no longer feel like home in my mind, the cherished memories will always stay with me.