Exploring Hong Kong Cuisine: Authentic Local Eateries

A Day at Australia Dairy Company

Despite a light drizzle, a long line of people waited outside the Australia Dairy Company, one of the most famous cha chaan teng in Hong Kong. Caleb Ng, a local restaurant entrepreneur and my guide for the day, assured me there was no need to worry. Everything would move quickly — and indeed, we were soon ushered inside the bustling eatery. It was a beautifully chaotic scene, with staff weaving through tightly packed tables, jotting down orders, and delivering cups of lemon tea.

Patrons would sit down, then jump up to film the melting butter on their French toast, before finally lining up to pay at the door. We were seated together at a table in a corner facing the wall, and Ng ordered us some classics: macaroni soup with ham, milk tea, and fluffy scrambled eggs served with soft white toast. Everything arrived within four minutes, piping hot. Twenty-two minutes later, we paid and stepped back outside, feeling slightly dazed as if emerging from a crowded dance floor.

Cha Chaan Teng: The Essence of Hong Kong Cuisine

In Hong Kong, cha chaan teng are not just eateries; they are a vital part of the city's culinary culture. The dishes here are a fusion of European colonial influences and local ingredients. These establishments may not be the flashiest, but they form the backbone of Hong Kong’s food scene.

The menus at cha chaan teng are often simple yet diverse, reflecting the resilience in the dishes prepared. Around the world, more chefs and diners are beginning to take notice of this type of restaurant, with variations popping up in cities like Paris, New York, and Sydney. Yet, the humble spirit of cha chaan teng remains intact.

Unique Eateries

Cha chaan teng can be found almost everywhere in Hong Kong, from bustling streets to narrow alleys. Some have stood the test of time for decades and are beloved, while others are simple roadside stalls where customers sit on crates to enjoy quick milk tea. “I could easily name 10 to 20 places in Central,” Ng remarked, pointing to a street that stretched several kilometers across Hong Kong Island.

Many locals have at least one meal a day at cha chaan teng. The appeal lies in the convenience and speed. “Speed is everything,” Ng emphasized. “You know you can be in and out in just 15 or 20 minutes.”

Culinary Fusion

The menus at cha chaan teng feature a standardized array of drinks, pastries, and savory dishes. Each category is inspired by the ingredients and techniques of both Cantonese and British cultures. Horlicks, a popular malted milk drink from England, is a staple, along with chewy milk tea and crispy egg tarts. Baked goods like pineapple buns, pork-filled buns, and simple crispy buns are also favorites.

Among the savory dishes, pork chop rice stands out, made with fried rice and topped with a layer of tomato sauce and cheese. The macaroni soup, a classic dish from bing sutt, has endured in cha chaan teng, with its broth evolving over the years.

History and Development

Like language, cuisine evolves over time. Rigid entities become more fluid. Cha chaan teng in Hong Kong emerged after World War II when Western influences began to shape the city’s culinary landscape. Samuel Dic Sum Lai, a researcher at the University of London, has dedicated considerable effort to documenting the history and culture of these eateries.

The story of cha chaan teng is not straightforward due to the lack of written records. “Before 1997, many didn’t consider cha chaan teng to be anything memorable,” Lai noted. Yet, there are parts of the story he can pinpoint. “The name emerged in the 1950s,” Lai affirmed, highlighting the convergence of various popular dining styles in mid-century Hong Kong.

Changes on the Horizon

The pandemic and investments from mainland China have reshaped Hong Kong, and cha chaan teng are no exception. However, Lucas Sin, a chef and author of an upcoming book on cha chaan teng, asserts that they remain a strong cultural force. “Old cha chaan teng are closing down,” he said, “but they’re not disappearing.” Instead, they are evolving and expanding globally.

In Paris, the modern eatery Bing Sutt serves crispy pineapple buns and Ovaltine cookies, while 8:52 Hong Kong Restaurant in Sydney offers thick Hong Kong-style toast stuffed with traditional peanut butter, Nutella, or Biscoff, along with more modern dishes like fried chicken burgers in pineapple buns. Sin is also set to open his own version of a cha chaan teng in New York by the end of this year.

These beloved dishes have spread beyond the city, reimagined by chefs who cherish them and turn them into fresh creations. Yet, this evolution does not strip cha chaan teng of their Hong Kong essence. In fact, this progression is what makes cha chaan teng special — and the reason they have thrived over the years. Sin simply states: “Change has always been part of their DNA.”