Exploring Borneo: A Journey into the Wilds of Sabah

Snapshots from Sabah

As soon as I set foot in Sabah, a state located on the northern part of Borneo in Malaysia, I was awestruck to see an orangutan within just two hours. Only 30 minutes after checking into MY Nature Resort in Sepilok, I spotted a large, brownish-yellow figure lounging on a branch right outside my balcony. To my surprise, there was another one in the adjacent tree, both casually going about their business — one relaxing while the other playfully tugged at some branches. This was a fantastic start to my journey in a place where wildlife sometimes feels just a glance away from your bedroom window.

Borneo had long been a dream destination for me, especially since my first encounter with David Attenborough's documentaries. I worried whether I had come at the right time; would Sabah still harbor the strange creatures I had grown to love? Fortunately, just hours into my adventure, I caught my first glimpse of a rare Borneo orangutan.

Discovering Natural Wonders

Each afternoon at the hotel, guests are invited to witness the spectacle of large red flying squirrels. While enjoying some fried banana cake, the hotel manager, Edmundo, shared that a giant cicada would start singing at 6 PM, signaling the squirrels to emerge from their nests in the trees. However, that evening the cicada was late, and when the sound finally erupted, a flying squirrel jumped out and glided gracefully through the moonlit sky, creating a stunning scene.

The next morning, I visited the world-renowned Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, which has been operating for 60 years to rescue orphaned and injured orangutans, some of which had previously been kept as pets. Watching young orangutans play was heartwarming, knowing their futures were now secured.

Unique Bear Species

Across from the Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre lies the lesser-known Sun Bear Conservation Centre. Dr. Wong Siew Te, the founder, guided me through the facility and explained the plight of the sun bear, the smallest bear species in the world. Their threats closely mirror those faced by orangutans: habitat loss and poaching. They even face an additional hidden danger: the popular bear paw soup in China.

Exploring the Kiababtangan River

I arrived at the Kiababtangan River, the longest river in Sabah, renowned for its wildlife. My first lodge, Abai, was accessible only by boat. Daily explorations offered me the chance to see crocodiles, otters, macaque monkeys, and a variety of birds.

The highlight of the trip was spotting a pair of hornbills. But I remained eager to find a primate I had seen many times in nature documentaries: the proboscis monkey. As we paddled along the river, our guide Junior excitedly pointed out a proboscis monkey perched on a branch, with its large nose and unique appearance.

Meeting Indigenous Communities

Returning to Abai after an exciting afternoon, I remembered that the resort was located across from an indigenous community, the Orang Sungai. I visited a family there, where children played by the riverbank. Junior reassured me that the locals never faced crocodile attacks, which made me feel safer about wading into the water.

As we moved upstream, I stopped at another lodge in the developing village of Sukau. Here, I learned about swiftlet houses, a sustainable industry aimed at harvesting bird nests while protecting the species. This industry helps conserve the environment, as the birds won't return if their nests are taken before they lay eggs.

Reconnecting with Nature

On our journey back, we continued to search for proboscis monkeys, venturing into the Mananggul branch of the Kiababtangan River. As we turned into this tributary, the pristine forest enveloped us. Junior pointed out an abandoned lodge where David Attenborough once stayed while filming here. He shared that he had worked on many documentaries and always drew inspiration from Sir David's portrayal of nature.

By the end of the day, we witnessed a family of macaque monkeys sitting atop a mound of aquatic plants, delighting in their interactions as if we were watching a reality show. When boats from other lodges began to arrive, we pressed on, eager to discover more of Sabah's natural wonders.

This trip to Borneo provided me with invaluable and profound experiences regarding nature, wildlife, and the lives of the people here. If you're planning to explore Sabah, remember that the true adventure lies in appreciating the breathtaking beauty of the surrounding nature.

Article adapted and edited from: Wanderlust Magazine