Experience Farm Life and Cuisine in Southern Québec

Experience Farm Life and Cuisine in Southern Québec

Once, I found myself standing in a vast vegetable garden where Jean-Martin Fortier was meticulously slicing a beet with a small knife. He shared with me, "Beets are a staple food that our ancestors consumed frequently. They are similar to potatoes, but we use the entire plant, including the leaves. These roots can be stored for four to six months."

When you think of Québec, you might picture the iconic towers of Château Frontenac or the vibrant squares of Montréal. However, this province, the largest in Canada, spans over 1.5 million square kilometers, filled with dense forests, farmlands, and more than a million lakes and rivers.

The Eastern Townships

The Eastern Townships (or Cantons-de-l’Est) is a rural area just under two hours' drive from Montréal, bordering the U.S. states of Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine. This region has long been celebrated for its flourishing agriculture, with rolling hills, vineyards, and abundant orchards.

After the American Revolution in 1776, many loyalists to the British crown were no longer welcomed and chose to migrate north to Canada. They settled in the Eastern Townships, establishing charming villages reminiscent of English towns, complete with tidy neighborhoods and quaint little fields. Agriculture quickly took root here, creating a picturesque landscape of pastures and family farms that still thrive today.

From Farm to Table: A Culinary Journey

In the small village of Stanbridge East, which you could easily overlook, I saw Jean-Martin making a significant impact. He owns Espace Old Mill, a farm and restaurant located next to a renovated flour mill dating back to 1849, and he proudly identifies as a "market gardener." But that’s just part of the story.

The produce from his small farm is transformed into delectable dishes at the Rustic Chic restaurant just a few steps away. Jean-Martin is a pioneer in the hyper-local food movement in Southern Québec. "For me, it’s essential to share the passion for seasonal eating, local farming, and helping people rediscover the basics," he explained as we wandered through a greenhouse brimming with purple tomatoes, ground cherries, and cold-hardy vegetables.

Espace Old Mill Restaurant

Upon entering Espace Old Mill, I was greeted by low wooden beams and exposed brick walls. The sweet aroma of fennel wafted through the air. Jean-Martin opened this restaurant in 2023, and it has since become a popular destination with a diverse menu that emphasizes farm-to-table dining.

That Sunday evening, the restaurant was completely booked. The menu featured tasting dishes, with each small plate resembling a vibrant painting of seasonal ingredients, from pale red tomatoes to a dessert made with celery root, apples, and rum. Most of the produce had been harvested just hours before. The menu leaned heavily towards plant-based dishes, reflecting an environmentally friendly culinary philosophy.

Urban Cuisine in Montréal

Before venturing into the fields and farms of the Eastern Townships, my journey began in Montréal. The city's culinary identity has been shaped by numerous waves of immigration, with French, Jewish, Italian, Haitian, Lebanese, Vietnamese, and Syrian communities each leaving their mark.

The cobblestone streets are alive with bistros and French-style bakeries, alongside traditional dépanneurs. My food tour focused on Little Italy, where the rich array of flavors—from Peruvian ceviche to Korean fried chicken—showcases the multicultural tapestry of the area.

Urban Farming

"Montréal is the world capital of urban agriculture," a friend of mine remarked as we passed eateries adorned with wine bottles and potted plants flourishing on window sills. "We have countless rooftop gardens, an urban vineyard, and the largest rooftop greenhouse in the world." Lufa Farms, the force behind the city's record-breaking rooftop garden, gained attention when it opened in 2020 in the Ville Saint-Laurent area.

Relaxing at Spa Eastman

Finally, my journey led me to Spa Eastman, a serene retreat nestled in the countryside, renowned as Canada’s first wellness spa. Jocelyn Dubuc founded Spa Eastman in 1977, aiming to create a holistic resort centered around nature, nutrition, and restorative living.

Nearly 50 years later, it continues to thrive, offering a space for individuals to connect with the land and rediscover peace.