An Unforgettable Camping Journey to Kenya's Wildlife Sanctuary

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An Unforgettable Camping Journey to Kenya's Wildlife Sanctuary

My train journey began as we rolled through one of Kenya's oldest national parks, Tsavo, where a herd of red elephants was dusting themselves in the dry earth. A child sitting across from me exclaimed, "Mom! Is that a red elephant?" jolting me awake from my nap.

After departing Nairobi about four hours earlier, the scenery transformed from lush green hills to arid landscapes. Tsavo felt truly wild and untamed, even from the comfort of my air-conditioned train seat.

A Journey on the Historic Railway

The history of this railway is just as thrilling. Back in 1898, British colonists commissioned Indian laborers to construct the first railway line in the region. During the construction, a pair of man-eating lions roamed the worker camps, causing terror among hundreds at night. I remembered watching the movie "The Ghost and the Darkness" as a child and swore I would never go on a safari.

This railway line later earned the nickname 'The Lunatic Express' due to the madness of its construction and the perilous nature of the train rides. It opened up opportunities for aristocrats to come to Kenya for hunting, including former U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt.

From Nairobi to Mombasa

Today, the standard train journey from Nairobi to Mombasa takes about six hours. Gone are the smells of gunpowder in the carriages; now, the sounds of girls laughing on their way to the beach or tourists stopping to snap photos of giraffes and antelopes fill the air.

We stopped at Voi to spend the night at Taita Hills Resort & Spa, located next to the Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary. The next morning, I hopped into a Land Cruiser 4WD with our guide Caroline, wrapping myself tightly in a blanket as I anticipated exploring the vast sanctuary before me.

Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary

This sanctuary serves as a migratory corridor for wildlife between Tsavo East and West, where elephants, lions, buffalo, and the occasional leopard roam freely. With 50 species of large mammals and over 300 types of birds, it truly felt like a rich world where I was just a small part of the vast universe.

As we drove through the brush, a group of dik-dik antelopes hurried across our path. Upon seeing our vehicle, zebras paused to assess their safety before galloping away. Meanwhile, an elephant was rubbing against a tree, seemingly scratching an itch. Suddenly, time felt like it had come to a standstill.

Meeting the Sanctuary's Guardian

We met Donart Mwakio, who has been a ranger in this sanctuary for nearly 30 years. He shared that this area was once a hotspot for hunters chasing the Big Five. "Our goal now is conservation," he said. I couldn't help but wonder how many animals would be here today if the sanctuary hadn’t been established in 1970.

Donart's team consists of 30 patrolling staff who document animal activities daily. "No two days are the same," he said. "One morning I’m hosting guests, and the next I’m rescuing a lost baby elephant."

Reforestation Efforts

We arrived at a reforestation area that has been recovering since 2010 after years of fires and erosion. Over 10,000 trees have been planted, and wildlife is gradually returning. Donart handed me a young sapling, and for the first time in my life, I planted a tree.

This act was not only a memorable experience but also a way for me to contribute to the ecosystem here. Once finished, Donart attached a small label with my name to the tree. I would be able to track the growth of my sapling online once I returned home.

Stargazing in the Wilderness

As night fell, we drove deeper into the sanctuary, and due to our remote location, the night sky revealed a blanket of twinkling stars. Our guide Moses switched off the vehicle's headlights, and in that moment, we were enveloped in complete darkness. The howls of wild animals, the laughter of hyenas, and the chirping of insects reminded us that we were far from the city.

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